Leslie Harlib's Cuisine Scene

Marin Independent Journal

Wednesday, June 07, 2006

A new Middle Eastern snack shop and deli opened two weeks ago at 1109 Fourth St. in downtown San Rafael (formerly Orange Julius/Dairy Queen), across from the Christopher B. Smith Rafael Film Center.

Falafel Hut is owned by Salem Shawa, of Egyptian and Palestinian ancestry. His menu reflects his roots, he says, in dishes such as falafel (chick pea fritters) served in a variety of ways, chicken kebabs, ground lamb and beef kebabs, stuffed grape leaves.

There are rose-water-scented pastries that are variations on the theme of baklava. Most dishes are made in-house, including spinach and cheese pies wrapped in thin yeasted dough.

Shawerma, thin marinated slices of lamb and beef served with broiled tomatoes, parsley, seasoned onions and tahini sauce on lavash bread, are on the menu. Shawa says he's in the final stages of getting his permit for a traditional shawerma rotisserie. This is a vertical spit on which the layers of meat revolve in front of steady slow heat so they can be safely sliced and served, from the outside in, over many hours. Chicken shawerma is already available.

For years, I've hoped that a snack bar serving this Middle Eastern street food would open in Marin. Now it has.

Falafel Hut, with a couple of tables inside and several more on the sidewalk, is open Mondays through Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Sundays until 6 p.m. Food packaged to go, is a specialty.

For more information, call 259-0440.

lharlib@marinij.com, or write to her c/o of the IJ, P.O. Box 6150, Novato 94948-6150.